Wild Sockeye Is Back: Five Ways to Cook It This Summer

Sockeye season is short and worth the wait. This is the salmon with the deep ruby color and the rich, clean flavor that pale farmed fish can only dream of. Because it is leaner than other salmon, the only rule is this: do not overcook it. Pull it a touch early and let carryover heat finish the job.

From the Case

Sockeye Salmon Fillet

Fresh wild sockeye fillets are on ice at the counter now — limited quantities each week.

$19.99/lbMarket price · varies with the day

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Five simple ways to cook it

1. 1

   Cedar plank on the grill

   Soak a cedar plank for an hour, lay the fillet skin-side down, and grill covered over indirect heat. The wood steams and smokes the fish gently — no flipping, no sticking.

2. 2

   Hot and fast, skin-side down

   Oil the grate, lay the fillet skin-side down over direct medium-high heat, and leave it alone. The skin crisps and releases on its own when it is ready.

3. 3

   Slow-roasted in the oven

   Roast at a gentle 275°F with olive oil, lemon, and herbs until just barely flaky. Low and slow is nearly impossible to overcook.

4. 4

   Seared for tacos or salad

   Cut into cubes, sear hard in a hot pan for a minute, and fold into tacos or over greens. Sockeye holds its shape beautifully.

5. 5

   Cold-smoked or cured

   Ambitious cooks can cure it into gravlax or cold-smoke it. The firm texture and deep color make a stunning brunch centerpiece.

Treat the leftovers right

Cooked sockeye is excellent cold. Flake leftovers into a salad, fold into scrambled eggs, or mash with a little mayo and capers for the best salmon salad you have ever had. Nothing about this fish should go to waste.

“Great salmon does not need much — good fish, a hot grill, and the discipline to pull it early. Let the sockeye do the talking.”

— The Crystal Creek Counter